03-06 - Tucson - Mileage 213 - Cumulative 3143

I have done little other than laundry and cleaning and catching up with mail and the like, will get out for some local sightseeing. - I didn't make it out of the house, it started raining dropping almost a year's worth - 2 inches in an area of 8 inches per year. I have heard so many time on this trip from so many people that the weather this year has been weird. In most places it has been the amount of rain, in others it has been the cold. I do not know if this is due to La Nina or El Nino as the two Pacific weather cycles are known as but the rain has been needed to raise the level of the aquifer in most areas.

03-07 - Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument - Mileage 201 - Cumulative 4189

Wyatt and I went out for dinner last night, it was Italian and not that bad but I have had better. I had to retire for the evening shortly after returning to the house however. Boo came home early and I though it was best they have time together without my interference.

The weather was lousy to start off with, heavy rain most of the way out to the Interstate and very slow. The driving style is not as aggressive as the D.C. area but more infuriating in its deliberateness. I had stopped twice in the city to get propane but no one wanted to go out in the rain. I finally waited until I reached the Interstate, saw a sign stating propane at such a price, but when I got there found that was only the price when you purchased fifty gallons and didn't include state tax. Since Tiny was completely out and I had frozen food in the refrigerator I was somewhat stuck and filled up anyway. I find from talking to people that consumer protection in Arizona is virtually unknown.

There are two major routes to get to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, I opted to take the Interstate to Gila Bend and then down Highway 85 to Ajo where the start point is and then continue down 85 to the park. The rain lasted almost all the way to Gila Bend and the desert actually had standing water on it. I knew that once the rain stopped and the weather got hotter, the desert would blossom instantly.

I passed Picacho Peak which is an unusually bleak stone mountain sticking out of the desert all by its lonesome. I was tempted to stop at the state park and climb this peak despite the rain. However, common sense prevailed and I continued. There is a state park there and what appears to be a large campground. From what I have seen Arizona as a very large state park system that accommodates a lot of the requirements of the population. The state parks seem to provide more recreation than do the National Park which seems geared more to preservation.

Heading south the rain stopped and the visibility increased significantly. Most of the land was flat and is used by the Air Force as a range. Not too surprisingly it is called Barry Goldwater Range. In several places I saw targets that seemed to be airplanes, I couldn't see them well enough to know if they are the real McCoy or just outlines. I would think the range itself if forty miles long and there is a small auxiliary field as well.

There was one interesting section called the Crater Hills where the rocks are more like lava outcroppings. I would have like to stop but I couldn't find a place to pull off the road. There was almost no shoulder to the road and there was a steady stream of RVs and other large vehicles in both directions. I gather this is a major snow bird area, I have noticed a Bureau of Land Management campground build into the desert without any pads, just a space opened up. It seemed crowded and not that far away there was a gas station and food mart to serve the needs.

Ajo is an interesting small town that is largely surrounded by the remnant of copper mining, and there is at least one mine still in operation. I stopped at the Chamber of Commerce, registered for the hike at Ajo and at the park and did the local hike. It isn't the mot attractive hike I have done but it was enjoyable after sitting on my sitter for so long. The copper mines are interesting but it was flat and open and getting hot.

I continued down the road to the park and talked to the volunteer coordinator; he remembered me and was able to find my application and attached my name card to it. Now he can attach a face to both of them. It was getting late so I opted to stay there for the night. I think the area is fantastically beautiful and would be most enjoyable for a month or absence of stores in the area would assure a low-cost factor. It has been my observation so far that there are parks where the the volunteer program is an integral part of the overall operation. There are others where the volunteer program is keep as a very low profile as possible. I think most of this falls into the category of kingdom building as I doubt that volunteers are pat of that determination of what the grade structure should be for the park. At Organ Pipe it is apparent the volunteer program is significant even though there is not a staffed position for job and is performed by a volunteer. The volunteers that I saw were knowledgeable and had been coming there for several years. Many of the volunteers winter here and go up north to another park for the summer.

The camp sites, with the exceptions of the sites designated for volunteer Camp Hosts, are dry sites without electricity, water or sewage which doesn't bother me that much as I have dry camped most of the way out here. However, when I attempted to fire up the computer using the adapter from 12 volts of Tiny's batteries to the 15 volts required by the computer I found that the fuse had blown and I would have to suffer through the night without the use of it once the battery had worn down. I did a lot of work in the two hours but little writing so I am at least a day behind and of course I suffered withdrawal plans Generators are not allowed except during the afternoon hours which is good most of the time but does mean either you have a powerful inverter or dual voltage appliances or you make do without TV or VCR and the like. I would imagine far more reading is done my those who stay a long time or they may even have to break down and talk to their respective spouses. Somebody should bring this unique situation to Ophra or Jerry Springer - husbands and wives talking to each other.

I did walk out to one of the old silver mines about eight miles out and found many of the arroyos were filled with water from flash flooding. It wasn't deep and I was able to cross with only getting my feet wet. The area is pleasant walking with sufficient change in elevation to keep the aerobic rate up. There was some mud but it dried rapidly and fell off. I saw a number of jackrabbits which assumed meant that I would be serenaded by coyotes later in the evening.

By the time I returned it was dusk and after taking photographs of the event, I grabbed something to eat, read for an hour and dropped off to sleep. I didn't even close the curtains as there wasn't anybody parked that close. While there were pads on either side, the sites are angled and sufficient vegetation exists so you do not feel that you are looking into the living room of your neighbor. I contrast this to the site in Tombstone where the extensions on some trailers or RVs couldn't be opened for the lack of room.

Much to my surprise I awoke at about 0200 and the bright moonlight was so strong I could see even the mountains in the distance. I tested the digital camera in the moonlight, at least. I had some images. However, until I edit them I will not know if they are any good. Most of the pictures I have taken are good but I do have to develop a better filing system so I can find them when I need them even if it creates duplicates.

I read a few more hours and listened to the sounds of the night through the open windows. The coyotes were the major voice but there were several species of birds that also played in a significant role in the orchestral masterpiece. I cannot help but wonder if Fredie Grofe didn't obtain some of his ideas from the nocturnal nocturne. J. S. Bach would have loved the counterpoint and contrast that even my nonmusical ears detected. The desert is not at all quiet at night. The Grand Canyon Suite is an example of this I believe. If I think of it I will see if I can find an inexpensive tape recorder and see what I can do with it. I guess one of the pleasures of retirement is to have the time to listen to one's environment. Just not having to go to bed by a certain time allows experimentation into new ideas. Of course some people carry this too far but I am enjoying the ability to expand.

03-08 - Tucson - Mileage - 177 - Cumulative 4366

I was up at that crack of dawn and on the trail before sunrise. As I could not start the generator before 1200 I had to make coffee by other methods but it tasted all right I guess. It had a few grounds in it but I guess they are digestible. I know that the coffee had a real kick to it. I picked it from between my teeth for an hour afterwards. It reminds me of early Army coffee and the sacred ritual of making boiled "egg" coffee that I grew up with. Woe to the individual who didn't drain their cup to the last bitter grounds.

I saw a mule deer even before I left the camp area and a large number of desert grouse with their dangling plume on their forehead that seem to be everywhere scurrying away. There were a couple of coyotes in one of the arroyos that rapidly disappeared plus the suggestion of other animals that I only had a very fleeting glimpse at. The desert is a beehive of activity even early in the morning. It was still too chilly for any cold blooded reptiles but I imagine that in the afternoon they were out also.

There are any number of birds that survive very well in the desert, how they manage to avoid the cactus spurs I do not know. I know that some species dig nests in the Saguaro Cactus, protected from most of the predators that way. I think that even snakes have a difficult time climbing some of the cactus. Both species must exist in the grand scheme of things but neither must take more than its share.

The temperature climbed very rapidly and was in the 80s by 0800. The temperature never rose much above that and was comfortable for hiking. I was over dressed just wearing a sweat shirt. The flowers were coming out everywhere and one could watch the blossoms unfold. It was fascinating. By 1000 the valley was all color, from dark green to the brightest yellow gold. The rapidity of the change was astonishing. One hears stories about the desert and how rapidly it changes based on temperature and moisture but until it is seen it isn't believed.

By lunch time I was returned to Tiny, fired her up and headed for the border 5 miles away. I had several cups of decent coffee, crossed the border for a look-see and a bottle of Kahlua followed me back across into the states. It appears the actual town is two miles away and I didn't feel like going that far and not do anything like eating or drinking. Your major tourist towns can drive you bonkers attempting to sell you some of the most useless tourist items, I did not see that in Naco nor did I expect that here. I know there is a major snow bird community south of the border here as there were many RVs returning from wintering in warmer spots but I do not consider them to be normal tourists. I would suspect a number of these people come here every year and all ready have all the souvenirs they and their extended families will ever need. Others I am sure all full time RVs who no longer have any room to display that sort of thing. I know that if I bring anything junk back I will have a difficult place for it at home, the amount of stuff we have collected over the years.

From there it was back up to the town of Why, where I picked up Highway 86 and followed this back to Tucson. The fatality rate from highway accidents must be something extremely high as I think there was a cross a mile most of the way.

It was getting late when I drove by the entrance to Kitts Peak Observatory where my brother worked for several years. I could not have made it up there before the visitors center closed so I just went ahead into Tucson. I know I would have enjoyed the site, I have seen pictures of it for many years and the view from on top of mountain top must be spectacular. There will other times to get up there I am sure, especially if I come back as a volunteer to Organ Pipe. I would have been there this year had I not made an earlier commitment to Petrified Forest. I think there is a strong possibility for next winter out here.

I stopped a few times to take pictures of the flowers and mountains and still arrived in Tucson before dark. I stopped at Walmart for some things, I am still getting organized, mot of it is simple things like obtaining heavier clothes hangers as the standard wire hangers do not hold up well during the jostling of the roads. I got tired of picking clothes up from the floor of closets. I also had to stop at Radio Shack for a new power cord with extra fuses and an antenna cable to hook the TV up with the external antenna so I can watch the news if I am in an area that has TV reception. Then I headed for Boo's house. It was still light when I arrived, tired and happy with the short trip. I think this trip was most rewarding and certainly most photogenic of any that I have done other than Big Bend. From what I have heard about Petrified Forest I will not be disappointed there either. I have an idea that the Painted Forest will be a problem of timing as I would think the colors are a balance of moisture, temperature and clear air. My days off will be spent attempting to capture the scenery as well as exploring the other sites in the area.

03-09 - Tucson

I have spent most of the day on the computer doing graphics and e-mail. I had thirty messages to download and answer and then started on the writing. I will leave here in the morning headed for Petrified Forest. One of the messages asked if I could get there as soon as possible and that I will do. I would not be too surprised if they are not prepared for when I arrive and I think they forgot that I am using an RV rather than staying in the volunteer quarters. There are advantages to both, privacy in the RV compared to more room and maybe company in the quarters if they are at all decent. I think the test of the quarters will be a strong indicator on the park's philosophy towards volunteers. I have heard horror stories about some of the places and it is the main reason why some volunteers never return. I guess the biggest advantage for me would be having a phone for Internet connectivity.

I plan to go to a better steak house and have my last great meal before heading to the great beyond. From here on out I fear I will have to survive mostly on my own cooking.

03 - 10 - Black Canyon City

It was a great meal, the prime rib simply melted in my mouth. I washed that down with a good bottle of wine and was totally at peace with the world. I slept well also.

It was up early but off late. We sat around drinking coffee but I finally made it out and headed northwest. Once again I drove by Picacho Peak but again didn't stop to climb it.

I headed for Casa Grande Ruins National Monument to look at the remnants of a civilization that faded away some four hundred years ago, the victims of a changing environment.

The park service has done a magnificent job of preservation and the interpretive guide did a fabulous job on the presentation of the story of the Hohokam Indians from the about the time of Christ to the 1400s.

All of the structures were constructed of local material, mud (caliche)and saguaro ribs along with logs floated down the Gila River from 60 miles away and the Great House was four stories tall. The entire encampment was built with a tall wall around it and was entered by using ladders; there were no gates. Even the doors were built with defense in mind, they were only four feet tall and people had to crawl through them.

From there it was up to Mesa to do a volksmarch there. It isn't easy to wander through a busy town with even a small RV but I made it and then headed north through Phoenix and headed for Flagstaff. The hike wasn't all that great as far as city hikes are but then I expected that. I did find a Staples Office Supply Store open so was able to get spare ink cartridges for my printer. I doubt I would be able to find them in Petrified Forest area and even then it is a forty mile trip.

I ran into an extremely heavy cloudburst and had to slow down to 30 mph for a while. It is a steady climb from less than 2000 feet to close to 4000 feet. The countryside started getting rough and it was also running late. There are several monuments between here and Flagstaff and I would like to see them before getting to Petrified Forest. Some of the cliff dwellings are world famous and I do not want to miss them, after all, that is what I came out here for. I can always learn something new.

I am perched on the top of a mountain with a fantastic view during the day, at night there is not a light to be seen in any direction other than the highway.

03-11 - Petrified Forest - Mileage 240 - Cumulative 4824

I am here, I am here, Yes Lord, I am here.

An interesting day to put it mildly. When I woke up it was snowing and had been snowing for some time as there was a four inch accumulation and it was coming down strong. Yet five miles away it wasn't, it was just a light bit of moisture in the air.

My first stop for the day was at Montezuma's Castle National Monument, an Indian cliff dwelling build into a cleft in an hundred foot bluff overlooking a river. If one didn't know there was a canyon you would completely overlook the location. The remaining house is smaller, there was a dwelling that held over a hundred families but it collapsed many years ago. One can still see where caves were cut into the rock to accommodate some of the families.

It doesn't appear to be from the lack of water judging by the raging water in the creek. Maybe the land just gave out or marauding Indians drove them away. I will do some more investigating tomorrow when I can find some of the material that was given to me. I think this is too far north to be Hohokam in origin. I believe these Indians used tools to a far greater extent as well. Of course it is possible that the experts do not know the reason either, I have run into that situation too many times. Unless there are still living legends there aren't any eye witnesses.

I attempted to find out more details about the location from the "Old Archaeologist" and it was apparent that he didn't know anything about anything at all. Poor old codger must have been wandering around in these hills ever since the Earp boys beat up on his kin in Tombstone.

From there it was a short backtrack on the Interstate and I headed west towards another Indian ruin, that of the Tuzigoot.

This settlement reminds me much more of the settlements of the Aztecs and the other civilizations of Central and South America.. Its location on the top of a hill exposed to view, despite its outer wall of defense, the low ceilings, 4.5 feet, and the type of construction do not lend itself to being compared with other local indigenous Indian tribes.

Much of the construction is caliche but in this case the caliche is being used more as mortar rather than as the primary building material. The use of stone reminds me of the Aztec although it is nowhere near as sophisticated. The Sinagua Indians were peaceful village dwellers living primarily by farming supplemented by hunting and gathering. In the visitors center is a display of the tools used by this group and they appear relatively advanced when compared to others I have seen.

That old codger showed up here as well, darn, his mule must be darn fast or he tied the reins to the back of Tiny as he sure got here lickety split. He didn't look all the much worse from wear and tear either. Of course he didn't get smarter during the trip but I guess that is too much to ask for.

Below this settlement is what appears to be rice paddies or at least ponds for collecting salt or some other mineral. It appears rather that it is another travesty committed by man, It is the tailings of a copper mill up the river that have dried and if not keep moist it turns into a very fine powder and gets into everything.

I do not know how is paying for this ecological disaster but I am sure that it isn't the company that created it. There should be federal law that assigns such liability beyond the life of the corporation that created the problem and insures the receivers are held responsible. This has been tested in courts as far as I know and has been upheld. Love Canal is one that sticks out for me.

It started to drizzle a little bit on leaving and I headed north of Highway 89A toward Sedona. Sedona is located in the Red Rock area of Arizona and is also at 6000 feet in elevation.

There is a volksmarch at Sedona which of course is why I wanted to go there even though the weather forecast was for snow at higher elevations. There was some snow to be seen but nothing severe but when I looked at the vehicles come from the direction of Flagstaff, I noticed the snow and ice was stuck on them three inches deep on the front of the vehicles. I wasn't that impressed with the hike but it still counts toward the ultimate goal, what ever that is.

Once completed with the hike and heading north I really ran into the snow and the visibility was reduced to a few hundred yards. The trip up White Oak Canyon must be absolutely magnificent as even the little I got to see because of the falling snow as well as the addition to the restrictions of driving in adverse conditions truly limited what I could see. More awesome were the rocks that were falling in many places and laying on the roadway. A hit on top of a vehicle of even a small rock could ruin one's entire day. Just running over some of the rocks I avoided could cost a tire or more. Sometimes in a small opening in the snow I could see suggestions of massive rock formations well above me. The bridge over the creek is an engineering art form and I know that I will have to do that strip again in better weather. There have been countless western movies filmed in this area because of the fantastic scenery and the overwhelming colors. There were a few camp grounds open but I didn't see any reason to stop. I would have enjoyed stopping at one or two of the scenic pull off places but I was fearful about getting started again.

I continued to climb to above 8000 feet when suddenly I broke through the clouds into sunlight. It was strange. By this time we were on a plateau and almost to Flagstaff. The storm was moving east and the weather forecasters were advising people to stay off the road. It is a little over 100 miles from Flagstaff to Petrified Forest and I arrived at the park before 1700. For some reason I thought I was to go to the southern entrance so I exited the Interstate at Holbrook and took the back roads. I was somewhat surprised that I had to go to the northern end some 26 miles away. This makes the park very long but it is somewhat slender.

As I arrived a day early, this was an excuse for the RV pad not to be ready and I am sharing quarters with someone. The quarters are not that bad but I think this chap and I are so diverse in personality that we would not be compatible in the long run. However, I think I can put up with it for one or two evenings.

I have walked around the areas set aside for RVs and trailers and I see a phone connection so I think I will one installed at the RV. That certainly will solve the Internet situation in addition to providing a point of contact if required. Although I have been told I will have a park system account shortly. Even with a park service account I couldn't access my e-mail directly but I could use webmail and do the other actions I normally do with my writings.

The drive up from the far end of the park was fascinating but it was a little too dark to take pictures. The southern end is the petrified forest and the upper end is the painted desert. On a sunny day this will be fun. I have seen a great collection of pictures of the park in the Interpretive Group where I will be working, I can use these as guidelines for taking my own. I think every combination of moisture and time of day changes the hue of the Painted Desert as the amount of moisture in the clay changes the refraction.

In all it is great to be in once place for a while; I may change my mind tomorrow when I met who I will be working with. At least I know I have the ability to pack up and leave if I do not like it.