03-26 - An eventful day with lots of scenery and interesting history. I started the day by finishing my mailing list and doing the tap dance routine for the park. I discussed with the number two man in Interpretive then took off headed for Flagstaff and Walnut Canyon National Park. Naturally I had to stop for the essentials of life, bread and wine, but this didn't take long. In reality I am more interested in keeping bottled water in the refrigerator than anything else; I drink about three liters of benign liquids a day not including the coffee in the morning. As it gets hotter this will be more and more of a problem. It is strange as in Virginia I am plagued with very dry shins, I am thinking this may be caused by the heater in Tiny rather than the lack of moisture in the air. The heater blasts super heated air directly on the shins. The humidity here is usually about 15% which is far less than the 100% prevalent in Virginia. I seem to get shocked every time I touch something grounded. I am getting shock shy. At times I feel I should wear insulated gloves at least. I haven't experienced anything like this since I left Alaska.

Walnut Canyon was different than what I saw last week as the structures were not made by the Ancient Puebloans but rather by the same Indians, Sinagua, that built Montezuma's Castle and Tuzigoot. These people seem to have intermingled with the Hopi Indian Nation sometime after 1400 AD. It appears the Sinagua arrived in the area sometime about 600 AD but didn't start building in Walnut Canyon until 1125 and departed about 1250. The exact reason for this move is not yet known.

The eruptions of Sunset Crater to the north may have been part of the reason, a volcano is a darn right serious deity to some folks. Ananimism made potent gods of about anything that could not be accurately described, even of such common entities such as water and fire. Ananimism was the first religion, even before there were representatives who volunteered to be the messengers to heaven.

Trade was extensive, turquoise from Santa Fe, seashells from the Gulf of Mexico and California, and macaw feathers from Mexico have been found in the buildings.

The walk down to the cliff dwelling is about 200 feet vertically and seemingly thousands of steps. The canyon is probably 500 feet deep with fairly sharp walls. The creek at the bottom wanders all which way and just about makes the butte an island; probably sometime in the future it will cut loose the remaining rock and straighten out the canyon floor. Of course it did make a strong defensive area for the people; it would be hard to attack. There is another area a little further down the river where there are almost like castle walls so "war" was a contingency to consider. There was a grave in the area discovered where apparently a woman was killed by an arrow, the shape was not one seen in this area before.

The canyon reveals there are two different era sandstone layers, the top being what might be expected and being of the Kaibab era, the lower Coconino, the lower layer almost looks like at one time it was fluid and flowed like lava.

Many of the overhang sites have been severely damaged by explosives. It was considered great in the late 19^th century to use dynamite to look for artifacts in the area, they also destroyed too many petrified logs looking for rock crystals, there is little doubt that given the opportunity it would happen again.

It was just a short hop from there to Sunset Carter National Park and walk through the lava flows. The eruptions started in 1064 and ceased in 1180, there were more than 600 hills and mountains in the area which are the result of these eruptions and lava flows.

As the man says only change is constant. Geologically, it has only been a short period of time yet vegetation has started to grow and wildlife returning. One cannot climb the cinder cone to see the crater itself which is good. In 1928 film makers wanted to blow it up to make a movie, local activists blocked this in 1930 it became part of the National Park System.

I ran into a tour group of German university students from Trier, had a great time chatting about the Moselle River valley. They seemed surprised that I knew as much about such a small place.

Apparently much of the Flagstaff area and the mountains to the north and the East are the result of volcanic action dating back into antiquity in the San Francisco Mountains. There are still frequent tremors which would drive me up a wall after Alaska. There is still a geological tracking station at the national park with a seismograph capturing the area's activity which consists mostly of small earthquakes.

From there is was just a short drive from the Kaibab Forest to reach Wupatki National Monument. Wupatki was populated with the same Indian people that populated Walnut Canyon but apparently did not go south after the eruptions but stayed to farm the very rich volcanic soil. This apparently kept this people in the major trading circles that ranged from Canada to Central America to the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific Ocean and the Mississippi.

There appears to have been villages one day walk in all directions which facilitated the movement of trade goods and culture. Civilization was far more advanced than what is commonly believed. While Europe was probably more advanced, it certainly was in the middle of the Dark Ages and more than likely was as brutal. It was until the white man came into the Southwest with modern weapons and horses that things started getting nasty.

Much of the life style seems to be patterned from the tribes much further south, perhaps Mayan or Aztec. The local Indians had built a series of ball courts in quite along string, about a days march between them. If these ball games were patterned after the Mayan the losers were apt to lose their lives. The dwellings again were not hidden in the overhangs of cliffs but rather on the rims where there would be visibility in all directions.

It appears there are three archeological traditions involved, Sinagua, Cohonina and Kayenta Anasazi. There were several tribes as we know them now involved. I have not been able to find details on the Cohonia and the Kayenta Anasazi and what would make them different than any other group but I will continue to try. There is an indication that some of these names were location names and were based more on area rather than clan or tribe. One could be a Cohonia one day and a Kayenta the next.

The Wupatki pueblo is far more typical of the 12^th Century home than is the cliff dwelling; they were laid so the high walls on the north and west protected them from the winds, the terraced room to the south and east captured the warmth of the winter sun. It appears that some people were actually buried in the floors of the dwelling, it also appears there were several layers of mud indicating it was easier to re-mud the floor than clean it.

Drought was always a concern and water storage was necessary despite the location of a spring not far away. Water was carried in from where ever it could be found. What I found most interesting was the natural blow hole. Air is continually either moving in or out of large underground caverns below depending on which is warmer. "Mother Earth" was exhaling while I was there and the air was coming out at a good clip. Some kids had taken a pullover of their mothers and were inflating it by the pressure of the wind. I heard one kid exclaim that the inflated shirt was almost as fat as Mommy.

There are other ruins in the area, some accessible, others have been set aside for future examination. This sometimes presents problems as the Hopi, as do others, view these ancient pueblo villages as "living monuments to our ancestral people" and rightly so as people were routinely buried within the houses themselves and these grave sites have been violated during excavation. It will be a difficult task to satisfy all those concerned and interested, all have rights that require respect.

The Hopi believe everything must be allowed to recycle, returning to earth. If human creations were made to last forever and not let die, "the world would get filled up, and the purpose of living would disappear. This does not agree with the National Park Service charter to "preserve and perpetuate the physical remains of the past for the future. I suspect the ultimate responsibility will rest with those individuals on whose their livelihood depends on the votes they receive. This unfortunately is the same group on whom the National Park Service depends to provide the funds required to fulfill their charter. If additional parks are named in misguided attempts to "create a legacy" without funding can only lead to disaster. It may be time for those interested to motivate their "interest groups" to counteract those groups dedicated to the destruction of those resources so our children and grandchildren will no longer have use for them.

It appears that fifty years ago a large portion of the pueblo was reconstructed to what was thought to be its original design and park rangers were allowed to live in it. I suspect that pressures from external sources forced the removal of this reconstruction to the condition it was found in.

On leaving Wupatki is was getting late and the shadows longer. I headed due north on highway 89 until I reached highway 64 and then headed for the east entrance to the park. I stopped at one of the viewpoints to find it was a Navajo flea market but it certainly did have a exciting view of the Little Colorado River Canyon. It was too dark for great photography but I did try. The sun was in the wrong location to capture sunset pictures but I attempted anyway but without fantastic success. The east gate to the Grand Canyon was open but no attendants where on duty when I arrived and I went to the first stop - Desert View - to see if I could get batteries as backup and maybe a cup of coffee. Every shop was closing and I just had time to reach the rim for a look at the sun before the sun disappeared and then it was dark almost immediately. I did chat with a couple from New Jersey for a while, they live not that far away from the ancestral home if I have something like that after all these years. I haven't lived in that area since 1949 and have only rarely even visited. In fact, I do not believe that any of the family are still in the area or at least I am not in communication with any in the area.

The campground is still closed for winter and it was twenty five miles to Grand Canyon Village to the other RV park so I decided to stay there for the night realizing that I may get chased out by the park rangers. There were several other RV plus people sleeping on the grass and figured that I might get away with it. I was right, nobody harassed us but I slept very lightly anyway. I was awake before sunrise and because I didn't want to start the generator that early I had coffee the old fashioned way. It was still sufficiently strong for a good caffeine high and while I chewed coffee grounds the rest of the day it woke me up. I was quite impressed with the tower, it is visible for many miles. It appears to be in need of refurbishing but from what I read there is nothing structurally wrong.

I was done at the rim before sunrise, there was just a deep red warning of the future and then the sun retreated behind the clouds again, ravens were doing their mating rituals tearing up the air with their screams and slowly other people started straggling down to the point. There was a couple on another point not far away that were yodeling - not very well - but maybe that added to the charm as well. I think I spotted about ten nationalities at least. This area is known world wide and this was proof of it. Many people looked envious that I had a cup of steaming hot coffee but that is life. Nobody ever said it had to be fair. There have been days where I would have killed for a hot cup of coffee. I am glad that it wasn't required this day even though the shops didn't open until 0900. Why they open that late is anybody's guess but it sure doesn't make sense. Of course since it is government it doesn't have to make sense. My feelings toward Grand Canyon the concessionaire has more to do with controlling the park than does the park service. I saw one ranger while I was there.

The sun did explode above the horizon again for a second sunrise with spectacular reds but them immediately ducked behind clouds for until finally appearing much more sedately. The other photographers were out in force with just about every kind of camera imaginable. I was delighted that I was there early. From there I wandered down the rim to the west toward the center of the park, stopping at just about every viewpoint that I could see. Despite it being quite early in the season the park was pretty much crowded the closer I got to the main village.

I did stop at one viewpoint that is also one of the trail heads for walking down into the valley, it was tempting. I know that this is a all day - at least - trip so I didn't attempt it. Maybe I will before I leave the area. Once my lungs get more accustomed to the altitude I will try it. All it can do is kill me and I have to go sometime. It will certainly be an experience to talk about.

I arrived at Grand Canyon Village and there were still parking places but it was filling up rapidly. I did the post office things first, got the needed batteries and wanted to browse a little. The lines for everything including the rest rooms, I hate to think what it is like during peak season.

There supposedly was to be a mass transit system installed but this has been delayed. Walking and bus is the only way to travel in that area and the area is a zoo. I had to wait thirty minutes to take a bus to the visitors center and bookstore, it would have been faster by foot. Most of the more scenic spots are available only by bus and they are crowded. The park is truly big business. I hiked the rim for five miles and it is truly beautiful, there is nothing like it anywhere else in the world. I hope the opportunity arises that I can visit the North Rim of the canyon as I hear this has far less people and therefore much more peaceful.

As I wanted to do a volksmarch in Flagstaff before returning to the park and wanting to return to the park before 1800 I left just after lunch. When I arrived at the main gate there was three lanes of cars into which it developed a three mile line waiting to get into the park. I do not think I would want to volunteer there. I stopped for a pizza in the first town and it was the worst pizza I have had in a very long time. I still have much to learn I fear. I was very hungry as I did not eat the night before but it was still lousy. The drive to Flagstaff is not bad but slower than expected. It was snowing on the top of the San Francisco Peaks but just a few specks of moisture reached the road. I did find the start point after a few wrong turns and did the hike on what used to be a railroad track so it wasn't difficult. I am still not quite acclimated so I was huffing and puffing when I returned but it is still kilometers in the book. Flagstaff is the only volksmarch within reasonable distance of the p[ark. I will not collect appreciable mileage until I start on the way back. There are plenty of hikes in Colorado.

I returned to the park about fifteen minutes before 1800, closing time, but I was called to help close up. The young lady who was doing this is too short to reach the flag ropes so I did that for her. I had little trouble falling asleep and staying asleep all night. I admit that being out here has done wonders for my sleeping, I rarely have any problems anymore despite all the noise at night, it is almost a lullaby. The days or nights of mind rape are rapidly disappearing.

I cannot remember another period in my life in which I felt so comfortable or having so much fun. I like this life, and the contact with people. I do feel that I am doing something worthwhile and very rewarding. I look forward to the day when Mimi can join me in this as I think she would be very happy doing it too. I know that she does not like the heat but it sure less troublesome than the heat in Virginia. At least the heat doesn't cause the stickiness the heat in Virginia creates. One sweats as much here, it evaporates so fast it is not noticeable.

03-26 Today I had roving duty and was pulled off to help an archaeologist map out what was once a Civilian Conservation Corps trail. The trail has been eroded significantly and it appears that it has been modified a few times since the late thirties. It has been a long time since I was a rod man on a surveying team. Once released from this I drove to the south end of the park, visiting all the attractions on the way and talking to people while doing it. I went out on the trails as much as possible and answered as many questions as I could. I also used other people's cameras to take pictures of them together, an act that is always well appreciated and is also a very good technique to meet people. It is also a lot of fun. I feel anything worth doing is also worth having fun at and that I am doing. It is great to talk to people who do not have a hidden agenda. It makes life ever so much more pleasant. I sure hope it turns out that I do this again next year. As far as I am concerned the only game in town is meeting the visitors and making sure they are getting what the taxpayers are paying for.

The park is still plagued with illness and leave so scheduling is a nightmare. I am glad that I do not have to do it. The remainder of the week was spent either working on interpretive talks or helping at the visitor's center. I will start planning my next weekend trip which will probably be up into Utah for a few of the parks up there.

04-01 Lake Powell, Utah I am up in the Glen Canyon National Park overlooking Lake Powell on the Utah-Arizona state line. It was beautiful at sunset with the sun reflecting off the water. People are catching stripers that are running about twenty pounds, good sized fish. There must be a thousand boats in the marina. Most of these are houseboats with some of them probably costing as much as a full sized RV. They are huge.

I am debating whether or not to take the lake tour in the morning, no decisions required this evening. There are four ladies here from Annandale traveling with just one husband. Poor guy, he never gets to say a word.

I stopped at Pipe Spring National Monument on the way up, interesting place. It was a series of fortified farm houses established by the Mormons to propagate the faith and to keep polygamists out of the hands of the US Marshall. Colorado City, one of the few places in the United States were polygamy has taken over the entire town and thus somewhat unofficially tolerated. An interesting place, the most common question asked is how the husband chose who to sleep with every night. There is a trail ongoing in Utgah that will set all sorts of precedants if the individual is found guilty. While I personnally do not care how many wives the guy has, he is not paying child support so it is my tax money that is supporting them.

The name comes from the natural spring that the house was built over in the event of Paiute Indian raids. Of course the Indians were not too happy about getting cut off from their water supply so raided the farm house. At certain times there were as many as forty children living there, all with the same father, living there. One of the children was always kept in the watch tower on top of the farm house to look for both Indians and for the occasional US Marshall who came through to check on polygamy. The quantity of food they produced at this place is amazing, they feed over a hundred people a day and still had surplus left over to send to other tithing farms here in Arizona and Utah. An earthquake closed the water source last year and a mining company has been brought in to rectify the problem but as of yet have just created a very large mud puddle.

The roads leading to the North Rim of the Grand canyon are still closed for the winter but I could see part of it. I drove over the pass at 9000 feet and there was still deep snow along side the road. I also crossed the Colorado River which carved out the Grand Canyon south of Lake Powell, It lies at the bottom of a five hundred foot canyon that is little more than one hundred yards across. It must have come as quite some surprise to those people crossing the desert prairie to the west. There was a ferry in place for many years until the Navajo Bridge was built. It cost the life of the originator when a Model T Ford overturned on the raft and carried everything down stream.

There is a National Park campground here with two sets of camp hosts that have been here for many years. I didn't find out until after I passed however.

The road passes the Vermilion Cliffs, cliffs that in the right light turns all colors in the late afternoon, most spectacular to say the least. They are almost the northern end of the Painted Desert.

There is little indication that it is there until you are on the brink. I know that I will visit the Navajo National Monument before I return, do not know what else I will try to see. I might even get up to the Monument Valley Tribal Area and the magnificent red stone rock formations up there.